Every time we return home after spending some days in Italy, we agree on our common devotion to how their culture and the terrain combine perfectly to provide cyclists with a captivating experience. Our latest foray brought us to Sondrio, right in the middle of the Valtellina valley. We resisted the temptation of traveling to more well-known, neighboring places like Bormio or Lago di Como, and decided to discover what this wine region offers.

Sondrio is so protected by the steep climbs surrounding the valley that there is barely any flat, with the Adda river being the lowest point. This creates a microclimate in terms of temperature, wind gusts, and rain that allows for the perfect harvesting of vines. We were there for the riding component, but getting to know a new area also meant tasting the traditional cuisine, and we were up for it.

We stayed at the Wine Hotel Retici Balzi, located a few kilometers away from Sondrio and at a higher altitude than the city. From the terrace, while enjoying our breakfast comprising homemade pastries and local products, we could admire the vineyards around us and the peaks lying further away.

It was from there that we realized the contrast between the two sides of the valley. The south side, usually referred to as the Orobic slope, does not receive as much sunlight and hence few products are being harvested. Given the steepness of the terrain, there are also few rideable paths. The north or Rhaetian side borders Switzerland, and it is where most of the famous terraces are found.

Dry stone walls

The shape of the valley does not make it easy to grow vineyards, so the locals had to find an alternative way. Over the years, they came up with these man-made stone walls that redesigned the slopes of the mountain, creating different levels that make for a unique landscape. The stones are stacked and the filling is nothing else than dry soil. This perfect example of rural engineering was declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2018.

Due to the constraints caused by the natural characteristics of the valley, riding in the northern direction means climbing, and the gradients there are far from gentle. That is why most itineraries run parallel to the river with the Sentiero Valtellina being the go-to path to follow.

Cruising along the river

The Sentiero Valtellina allows cyclists to ride from Colico to Bormio, with an estimated length of 114 km. There is no need to ride it in its entirety in one go as there are several train stations along the way where to hop on or off. One can take it as easily as needed without worrying about cars coming from the back as it is segregated from the main road, making it perfect for cyclists of all types.

Most of it is paved, but those with gravel bikes can follow some off-road deviations and side paths too. On a related note, there is a new bike park unveiled this spring in the Sentierio Valtellina, near Sondrio. It is the perfect place to practice your bike skills, with small jumps, sharp off-camber turns, and a mini rock garden. At the entrance, one can also find a bike pump and cycling tools, stressing how the local authorities take the wellbeing of cyclists into consideration.

Not far from it, there is a proper pump track built by VeloSolutions. Our skills on the gravel bike have a limit, so we let Luca Negrini show us how it is done. He is part of Bike Bernina, a sports association and mountain bike school in the neighboring Valmalenco. He was our guide for the day and his knowledge of the area was very appreciated, giving us the needy greedy details of both the terrain ahead and the highlights we rode past.

The suggested route brought us to several landmark cycling segments in the area, and we were mainly following the track of the Gravellina, a recently created gravel event that took place a couple of weeks after our stay. This route had different layers: an initial stretch along the Sentiero Valtellina, an intermediate segment comprising changing surfaces and views, and the stunning views at the top.

One layer above

We had been told about La Fracia, an imposing concrete climb on the ridge of the mountain with gradients over 20%. When we arrived at the bottom of the segment we couldn’t believe what we had in front of us, and even with the lightest gear it took some guts from us to make it to the top, with not much energy to appreciate what was around us. We were riding next to the vineyards, and that would be the norm for most of the remainder of the day.

The more elevation you gain, the more things you can see on the other side of the Valtellina, like the top of the imposing peaks that reach almost 3,000 meters of elevation. As we continued heading east, Luca pointed to the Aprica and Mortirolo climbs, an inherent part of the Giro d’Italia.

We lost count of the number of churches, towers, and castles we rode past. It felt like every village had at least one, in some sort of competition to see which one was more beautiful. Valtellina connects Italy with Central Europe, and one can see the influence of the different cultures on the local architecture. Another common theme was the cobbled roads, giving an ancient touch to the region.

Between villages, we tackled off-road segments of all types: proper gravel along dense forests, rocky hills, and even some parts right through the vineyards and apple trees. The paths were winding and narrow, which is okay on a bike but a challenge for the local farmers who need to transport the harvested products. That explains the presence of mini trucks along the way. Also, if you like Fiat Panda, Sondrio is your paradise.

Carb loading on the go

Teglio is one of the most beautiful villages in the area, so we planned our lunch stop there in order to eat with a view. We had sciatt, which could be described as round fritters with melted cheese inside, as appetizers, followed by different pasta dishes. Are pizzocheri, with its vast amounts of butter, the best choice when there are still a couple of hours of riding ahead? No, but every region in Italy has its own pasta dish and we could not go back home without trying the Valtellina one.

The pasta dough of the pizzocheri is turned into flat, short noodles and it has a dark color because it is made of buckwheat, which is grown in Valtellina. It is also complemented by cabbage, potatoes and cheese. Pizzocheri is one of the PDO and PGI products in the region. The other symbol of Valtellina is the Bresaola della Valtellina, a curated meat with a particular salting and drying process.

Addressing local needs

On our way back to Sondrio we rode over the Passerella Sulle Cassandre del Mallero, a bridge inaugurated three years ago to allow cyclists and pedestrians to go from Mossini to Ponchiera. It is 150 meters long and placed 100 meters above the Mallero stream. Before its construction, it was only possible to connect the two villages via a long path, so this is another good example of how the local authorities addressed a need among its inhabitants.

The riding came to a close with one lap around Renato Bartesaghi Park, the start venue of the Gravellina. We were hungry for more – in a figurative sense, as our stomachs were still full – and we said goodbye to Luca not before promising him that we would be back.

Valtellina in general, and Sondrio in particular, exceeded our prior expectations and were a rewarding discovery. The riding possibilities should trigger you to visit the region on a bike, and once there you will be persuaded by the unique gastronomy and wine culture to extend your stay.