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Among the Giants 7: Durmitor Quest (recap)

As we mentioned in the introductory article for the seventh edition of the Among the Giants project, choosing the destination was quite challenging. Now that we have returned from the trip, we can confirm that, despite the difficulties, Montenegro was undoubtedly the right choice.

One of the main reasons we chose to visit this country, beyond the challenge of traveling to a place outside the European Union and the logistical complexities it entails, was the opportunity to put Montenegro in the spotlight of the international cycling scene.

Without comparing the area to the Dolomites, Durmitor National Park is a true natural paradise surrounded by towering mountains, many exceeding 3,000 m. It offers vast potential for outdoor sports, including cycling. Despite the growing tourism Montenegro is experiencing, it remains uncrowded and is an ideal destination if you are passionate about conquering mountains.

First challenge: Arrival to destination

During the trip preparations, we realized that reaching our destination was like running an obstacle course. The first hurdle was figuring out how to get into the country. While Podgorica airport does offer international flights, there are only a limited number of direct connections from major European cities, so we ruled it out to avoid traveling with bikes and making stopovers at other airports. Instead, the most reliable option was to travel to Dubrovnik, Croatia, and arrange a group transfer to Žabljak, where we would be staying.

We arranged for a shuttle to pick us up at the airport and handle the round-trip transfer of the participants and the bikes. However, not everything would go as smoothly as planned. While Croatia is part of the European Union, Montenegro is not. Given this situation, the shuttle company informed us they couldn’t pick us up directly from Dubrovnik Airport. Due to legal restrictions and border controls, they could only start the service in Herceg Novi, the first city you encounter after crossing into Montenegro along the coast. Faced with this situation, we had no choice but to organize an additional transfer in small groups to get there, where we could finally begin the three-hour journey to our final destination.

Fortunately, on the return trip, the shuttles were allowed to drop us off directly at the Dubrovnik airport to ensure we could catch our flights on time.

Nadgora Resort is the place to be

Another great success, besides this edition’s destination, was the choice of accommodation. We stayed at the Nadgora Resort in the town of Žabljak. In winter, it is the perfect place for snow sports, while in summer, it’s an excellent spot for nature lovers, whether you’re looking to practice outdoor sports, enjoy a family vacation, or simply find a place to disconnect and recharge.

We booked the Sky House, their largest home, and Aleksandar and his family treated us excellently. The house is a super cozy lodge entirely made of wood, with traditional country architecture that blends seamlessly with the surrounding environment.

The resort is located at the foot of Durmitor Park, surrounded by lush forests and mountains. Waking up in the house and looking out the window was beautiful. Despite that feeling of tranquility and solitude, the town of Žabljak was just a few kilometers away, where we could find all the necessary services: supermarkets, restaurants, ATMs, gas stations, and more.

Our journey through Durmitor National Park

After the long and intense arrival day, we held the project briefing and the official presentation of the brands and participants. Although we were tired, the group’s excitement and anticipation outweighed our fatigue and desire to rest.

Day 1. Durmitor Loop (counter-clockwise)

The time had come to start our first bike route, and we were all excited. After the usual morning briefing, during which Javi explained what was ahead of us, we were ready to get on our bikes and start pedaling.

The plan for the day was to complete a circular route around the national park in a counter-clockwise direction. After riding just a few kilometers through the forest surrounding the resort and with barely any time to warm up, the track led us straight into the first climb of the day. Once we found our rhythm and after seven kilometers of climbing, we began a long descent with stunning views of the Tara Canyon.

One of the first things that positively surprised us was the pristine condition of nature, almost intact, with hardly any signs of tourist exploitation beyond the narrow road we were traveling on.

Later on, we were suddenly stopped in the middle of the road. To travel inside the park, you have to pay 5€ per person for a day pass. Not that this would be the first country to charge for park access, but what caught our attention was the person responsible for selling these tickets parked on the side of the road, in a remote place, with hardly any official credentials. It all seemed strange and somewhat suspicious, but after checking with several sources, we were ensured that it was the standard procedure, and we bought the entrance tickets. After overcoming the tug-of-war with the locals, we descended steeply into the valley that cradles the Sušica River. The descent was followed by a demanding climb to reach the other side of the canyon, where we regrouped and enjoyed some breathtaking views.

From there, we continued on a rolling road through a plateau that led us to the highlight of the day: the climb to the Sedlo Pass in the heart of Durmitor. We can assure you that the route doesn’t waste a single meter and is stunning all the way long. The landscape is impressive, and you can feel that sensation of pedaling among giants we like so much.

Each of us went at our own pace, but we ensured the group stayed together. We ended up conquering the summit exultantly.

Tiredness, hunger, and an exciting descent awaited us with open arms. It was time to enjoy it and find a local establishment where we could refuel and try the local cuisine.

With full stomachs and mindful of the time, we decided to shorten the last part of the route (visiting the Tara Bridge) to return home earlier. This change would allow us to rest a little longer, have a well-deserved shower, and enjoy a proper dinner. Undoubtedly, it was a great success for an unforgettable inaugural ride.

Day 2. Piva Lake and Sušica Valley

Before we knew it, we were already on the second day of our route. A stage with 3,200 m of accumulated elevation gain over 125 km, of which 2,100 m were in the last 40 kilometers of the route.

A bright day greeted us, but the weather forecast predicted intense heat, making hydration crucial to successfully completing the day. The scarcity of water points in the region forced us to stay alert and avoid running dry before reaching the next town.

We began the journey heading south from Žabljak, descending the main road. A long descent that allowed us to devour the first 30 kilometers in the blink of an eye. Our first goal was to reach Lake Piva, where we carried out the typical “supermarket raid” after tackling the first couple of climbs of the day and finishing the first part of the route.

From the village of Plužine, at the foot of the lake, we set off again, loaded with provisions to face the most demanding part of the entire route. Not every day, your Karoo (Hammerhead) informs you that the upcoming climb is nearly 40 kilometers long and has more than 2,100 m of positive gradient. Fortunately, Javi had warned us, so everyone knew how to manage their strength and food to overcome the challenge ahead of us, in a better way or worse.

Part of those final kilometers of the route passed again through the Sušica Valley, which we had already traversed the day before. This time, we would do it clockwise on our way back home, offering us new perspectives of the breathtaking surroundings.

Finally, after a long day on the bike, we all managed to return home. Another great day of cycling had ended, and it was time to relax a little and recharge our batteries.

Day 3. Changing plans. Ascent to Durmitor and return home

The original plan for the day was to head north toward the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina, passing by Piva Lake in the opposite direction from the day before and along different roads. It was the longest route (142 km and 3,500 m), and we had some doubts about some sections that we could not locate 100% due to the lack of information we found online. All this, together with the accumulated fatigue, the forecast of a midday storm, and the fact that we would have to dismantle the bikes and pack up our luggage for the return later the same day, led us to change our plans a little.

Instead, we climbed the Sedlo Pass from Žabljak, retracing part of the first-day route and following the first part of the route planned for this day. The group’s mood was impeccable: joy, satisfaction, good vibes, and desire to spend another great day on the bike could be felt while we pedaled uphill. Despite being Saturday in August, Durmitor felt it was just ours alone. Only a few cars were passing through the national park, and at no time did they prevent us from enjoying the landscape again.

On the way back to Žabljak, part of the group improvised a stop at one of the few pizzerias in the town. The rest of the group decided to visit the Tara Bridge, which remained on the landmarks list from the first day. However, this small expedition group did not get too far, as the sky threatened a storm, and they reconsidered the plan just in time to avoid the rain.

To put the icing on the cake of a hectic edition of Among the Giants, we had an incredible dinner at the Or’o restaurant thanks to our collaboration with the National Tourism Organization of Montenegro. Without a doubt, this was the best way to end our trip through Montenegro.

Montenegro, a rough diamond

There are many ways to conclude this article, all with the same underlying message: Montenegro is undoubtedly a hidden gem of the Balkans, especially for the cycling scene.

The country has great potential, and once you are there, you can see how it is gradually modernizing and improving its infrastructure and services. We are confident that it will become one of the star destinations for many travel agencies within a few years.

However, some challenges still remain, such as improving connections with major European airports or modernizing payment methods. Most establishments only accept cash, and even though they use euros, many countries have already transitioned towards cards or contactless payments via mobile devices or smartwatches.

As for Durmitor, the park is 100% recommended for any outdoor activity. As mentioned, it is not crowded and offers endless possibilities to enjoy nature and the environment. Cycling is undoubtedly an excellent opportunity to explore new destinations and discover incredible places that rival the mountain beauty of the Alps, which most of us know.

Among the Giants 7 is already history. Another edition has come to an end. Another great group of passionate cycling enthusiasts. Without a doubt, it is another unforgettable adventure in a magnificent country that we will all keep in our memories.

We wouldn’t want to close this summary without thanking all the brands involved in this edition, the collaborating companies, the media team, and every participant who made up this incredible group.